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Swiss-Italy Holiday September 2001 In and around Locarno |
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Our apartment Palazzo Varesi is a terrific place to stay. It's got all the amenities, a fabulous view , and a great location within walking distance of everything. The owners David and Lynn Skrbina are extremely kind and helpful. You could not wish for better. They have an info booklet in the apartment that explains most everything and are more than willing to answer questions. We really enjoyed the two balconies. The main one that faces Lake Maggiore catches the morning sun and the one off the bedroom catches the afternoon sun. A nice feature was that the kitchen window opened onto the main balcony making it easy to pass breakfast out to the balcony table. For the first 2-3 weeks it was quite warm and we barely needed the duvet on the bed. When the temperature dropped we simply turned on the radiators to keep it toasty anywhere in the suite. Nearest telephone When we visited, the apartment did not have a telephone. But there's one a short walk away in the beautiful square with the fountain. Turn right out front door, walk to corner and turn right again. Phone booth is straight ahead on the right hand side of the piazza one short block up. We didn't really need a phone except to confirm our flight home and book hotels in Zermatt and Zurich. We used our credit card but could have bought a 5 or 10 franc telephone card. Calls were inexpensive. Update: David and Lynn report that the apartment now has a cell phone. Banking The UBS bank between the Tourist Info Center/Casino and post office on Piazza Grande is only 5 minutes from the apartment. For converting currency, inside there's an automatic machine inside that changes several currencies to Swiss francs without a service charge. It also gives you the current exchange rates. A nice man at the information counter will show you how to use it. Outside is a row of automatic teller machines. These will dispense Swiss francs but be aware that the actual charges will be calculated by converting Swiss francs to US dollars and then to your currency (in our case Canadian). Groceries The two spots to shop for food are the Coop (at the Castello Visconti end of Piazza Grande) and the Cattori Lucullus, also on Piazza Grande but more central. The Coop is much larger and the place to go for necessities like toilet paper. We preferred the Lucullus with its satellite vegetable and fruit (frutta e verdura) stand. Wonderful fresh produce at bargain prices. Our favorites were the tomatoes and raspberries. The Coop carries really cheap wine but try In Vino Veritas a small shop just behind Piazza Grande in la citta vecchia. Restaurants Fish is a specialty anywhere on Lake Maggiore. Our favorite was the fresh perch (pertica) --definitely squisito. It helps to understand Italian or German as many waiters are not that willing or able to translate into English. In Locarno prices for lunches and suppers at good restaurants are similar to those in Canada, although lunches are generally more expensive. It's easy to run up a big bill and difficult to find inexpensive meals. Buying at the local bakeries and delis and eating picnic style saves money and is lots of fun. Arcadia Treff Restaurant In the hotel right across the street from Palazzo Varesi. Dinner for two with wine and mineral water (San Pellegrino) is 60-75 CHF. Best bets are the buffet specials only available on certain nights: 19CHF each. Universo Pizza Universo was 5 minutes away near the Tourist Info Center. One of the cheapest meals in town: 2 large pizzas at 15 CHF each. We usually did take-outs. Moevenpick Oldrati The large Swiss restaurant chain was our favorite. On the waterfront near the stazione it was a perfect setting for afternoon gelato. Dinner for two with wine and Pellegrino is 60-75 CHF. Dell 'Angelo In the far end of Piazza Grande, the Dell 'Angelo has tasty Italian cooking and a nice ambiance upstairs. Dinner runs 55CHF to 75 CHF with wine and Pellegrino. Internet cafe At the far end (near the old castle, Castello Visconti) is an Internet cafe in a colorful little bar called Bar Simba. The only things in English are the names of the drinks, all with risque or overtly sexual connotations. The bar itself is run by friendly young staff who laugh and kibitz with the regulars all day and night.
For us the big attraction in Locarno was Locarno itself. The scenery is more beautiful than the pictures can convey, especially the play of sunlight on the lake and mist on the hillsides. What we did not capture on film were the lights on the hillsides at night and the reflections in the water. It's very romantic--even magical. Lots of vine-covered old buildings and villas, flowers, trees, and water to keep nature lovers happy. On long walks by the lakeside you meet many young couples arm-in-arm or families with children in strollers or on go-ped scooters, which are very popular here. The place is alive with well dressed old folks exercising their dogs. Locarno with its mild climate is a haven for retirees. Piazza Grande The main square in Locarno--a spot to shop and to sip a cool one at one of the many outdoor cafes. It's great for people watching and crowded, even in September. La Citta Vecchia The Old Town dates from the 16th to 17th centuries. A maze of narrow cobble stone streets with many shops in ancient buildings. Madonna del Sasso Take the funicular up to this Franciscan church dating from 1487. It's beautiful inside with panoramic views outside. Have a gelato and merlot at the nearby Ristorante Funicolare overlooking Locarno.
© 2002 Pat & Peter A. Letendre
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